A look at the airlines in the region --Bhutan

Where gourmet yak meets yoga

The Amanresorts group puts Bhutan on the destination hot-list with its pampered experience of the remote country, writes Adam Majendie

Saturday, May 27, 2006

 
The Amanresorts group puts Bhutan on the destination hot-list with its pampered experience of the remote country, writes Adam Majendie
Turn right at Mrs Smith's House. That's one of the directions for Druk Air Corp pilots as they dip their 114-seat planes between the mountains of Bhutan for one of Asia's most spectacular landing approaches.

The house, nicknamed by the pilots, is a key navigation point as the twin- engine jets drop below 4,677-meter peaks to line up with the runway, Chief Purser Karma Namgyel said. Hugging the steep sides of the valley, passengers can see the faces of children running in the fields.

My own flight aborted its descent and pulled into a stomach-churning climb on news that another plane was taking tourists sightseeing somewhere in the clouds ahead. The only two civil aircraft over a country the size of Switzerland were in danger of banging into each other.

After three decades of tentative attempts to lure wealthy travelers to this remote Himalayan kingdom between India and China, the government in 2004 allowed some of Asia's most expensive luxury-hotel operators to open properties, catapulting Bhutan on to the list of hot destinations for rich globe- trotters.

Perhaps the most ambitious project to date is by Adrian Zecha's Cyrenaic hotel chain Amanresorts. To give the group's well-heeled customers a flavor of this remote country, Aman decided to build not one hotel but six, strung out along the central valleys.

The fourth of the lodg
es, collectively called Amankora, opened in January. For US$8,323 (HK$64,920) per couple, you get an all-inclusive seven-day journey through the Land of the Thunder Dragon, with everything from mountaintop temple visits to a salt rub and hot- stone bath at the spa.

The Paro lodge, 15 minutes' drive from the airport, is the biggest, with a two-story spa, glass-walled yoga room and a terrace with an outdoor fireplace. In the 24 suites, local touches such as wood-burning stoves blend with sleek modern interiors in brown and black. Manager Raymond Perfecto greeted me with a white silk scarf, the first of two traditional gifts to visitors of Bhutan. The second I got when I climbed to the nearby ruined fort - altitude sickness.

The thin air at 2,255 meters above sea level affects people in different ways, from slight shortness of breath to vomiting and unconsciousness. For those who trek north into the snow- capped Himalayas, the effects can be even worse. Not that Aman guests are likely to know.

"Aman junkies are not really into trekking," Perfecto said. "A very small percentage of guests go."

Most come for a pampered experience of Bhutan's culture, a way of life preserved until the 1970s by a policy of isolation and, since the borders opened to a trickle of tourists, by law.

Bhutanese are required to wear national dress to work and build houses in the traditional style, my guide Kinley Wangdi said. At school, they learn how to behave from the Driglam Namzhag, an etiquette manual that goes into extraordinary detail, from how to walk respectfully to how to wear your kabney, a long scarf that shows your rank or position.

So, if someone pours you a cup of tea, "you should receive the tea with the right hand and then draw it within the kabney with the left hand making a cover around it."

The result of this cultural fervor and the country's strong Buddhist traditions is a land of picture-postcard villages and temples scattered across rugged mountain scenery. The best time to visit is during one of the many religious festivals in the whitewashed monastery- fortresses, or dzongs.

For me, that meant a five-hour drive the next day to Punakha, the old capital. In the massive 17th-century building, where the country's monastic elite spends the winter, actors, dancers and spectators mingled with red-robed monks for a six-day celebration including mock battles, fireworks, dancing and a giant vat of local beer.

In a galleried room, I watched the Black-Hat Dance, where ornately decorated monks with Halloween-style hats swirled elaborate robes with huge sleeves in a mesmeric performance in front of the chief lama. The dance celebrates a ninth-century assassin who killed the anti-Buddhist Tibetan King Langdarma with a bow and arrow hidden in his sleeve.

A fair in the fields below drew villagers from as far as two days' journey to buy imported household goods and watch the latest DVDs in makeshift cinema tents. Government-funded local movies are beginning to replace a deluge of Bollywood blockbusters from India.

Most popular, though, were the gambling tents. The games seemed preposterously easy to win, but as dice rolled or numbers were drawn from a pouch, the money mysteriously flowed into the pockets of the gregarious stall holders.

"I don't think it's a game of chance, I think it's a game of tricks," Kinley said ruefully, back at Aman's Punakha lodge after an unsuccessful night at the tables.

The Punakha lodge includes a converted farmhouse, leased from Princess Ashi Pem Pem, one of the king's four sisters. In custom-made adobe buildings to one side are the eight suites, designed by Singapore-based Kerry Hill Architects, with interiors of mellow wood and a curious sense of privacy.

Most Amankora rooms have full- length windows at each end, allowing a clear view from outside unless you close the giant wooden shutters. Showers are without doors, and each suite has the signature of today's high-end hotels: a bath in the middle of the room.

Members of staff are still grappling with the demands of a modern hotel. I sent a pair of trousers to the laundry and got back two pairs, plus some shirts and assorted underwear - something of an achievement in a property with only five occupied rooms.

Fellow guests had other quibbles.

"What this place needs is a fly swatter!" said Aliki Gourdomichalis, one of a party of six Greeks. The trouble is, in Buddhist Bhutan, animals are part of the circle of rebirth and should not be needlessly killed, even flies.

So, when I discovered half a dozen of the insects having dinner in my fruit bowl, I was merciful. They might, after all, be former journalists.

Flies aren't the country's only zoological problem. Hundreds of stray dogs live by the rivers in Paro, Punakha and the capital Thimphu, providing an early morning canine chorus.

After various failed attempts to control the problem, the government hired a non-Buddhist from India as an exterminator, said Rimpoche Mynak Tulku, the reincarnation of a holy monk from the Sakya monastery in Tibet. The townspeople were horrified and took to capturing the strays and hiding them.

Shortly afterwards, the hapless exterminator died in a car accident, Mynak Tulku said. People shook their heads and told each other: that's what happens to such bad karma.

To boost their own karma, guests are encouraged to visit some of the many hilltop temples. Locals climb to these tiny monasteries bringing rice, butter and supplies, to gain merit.

In the Temple of the Divine Madman, dedicated to Drukpa Kinley, a colorful 15th-century vagabond, the priest offered me a blessing, touching my head with an antique bow and a large wooden penis, supposed relics of the patron of fertility.

Next stop was Gangtey, the most remote Aman lodge open so far. From Punakha, it is 77 kilometers along what must be one of Asia's most spectacular paved roads, a single lane of tarmac climbing to the pass along the side of a near-vertical valley wall. Rock falls and landslides are common.

There are also frequent head-on encounters with brightly painted Indian trucks that have unresponsive steering and slogans such as "good luck" painted on their mudflaps. Each time, my driver Chonglo took us on a brief but exciting detour on to the crumbling mud edge of the precipice. Bluffs above mountain roads are heavily populated with the country's famous 10-meter- high prayer flags.

It's not often that you get an Aman resort to yourself, but when I arrived in Gangtey, I was the only guest.

The eight-suite property's seven cooks, three spa therapists, two four- wheel-drive Hyundai Terracans with drivers and 32 assorted other staff were all there to look after me. I was very happy.

Chief chef at the Gangtey lodge was Jimmi. In addition to Amankora's American executive chef, Brandon Huisman, there are specialists in pastries and Thai and Indonesian cuisines, who rotate around the different properties.

One effect of this collection of cosmopolitan cooks is numerous recipes for yak, the hairy, high-altitude cow of the Himalayas. I tried yak chili con carne (delicious), yak chorizo (not so delicious) and yak, spinach and chili stew (revolting) during my journey, in addition to an early morning cup of yak- butter tea (don't ask).

I had planned to spend the morning visiting the local dzong, which was being restored, but Kinley told me there was an archery competition nearby and I jumped at the chance.

Archery is Bhutan's national sport and not to be missed. The country's two-member Olympic team of Tashi Peljor and Tshering Chhooden at the 2004 Athens games were archers. Both reached the last 32 in their events, becoming national heroes.

Bhutanese archery, however, is different. The two targets are a several centimeters in diameter and 145 meters apart. That's less than one tenth the size of the Olympic target and twice as far away. I couldn't even see it.

Nor could the contestants.

This is because bowmen from the other team tend to stand in front of the target while you're trying to aim, moving aside only after you've loosed your arrow.

If that isn't enough, female supporters of the opposition shout derogatory jokes about your sexual ability or yell names like "rab-chay," which means one who is unable to sire children, Kinley said. Matches can last several days.

At Gangtey, the contest had been going on for two days and most of the village seemed to be there, talking, laughing and picnicking on the grass in the warm spring sun. People casually wandered between targets while contestants shot over their heads.

On the infrequent occasions when someone hit the target, his team members would break into a little song-and- dance routine around the arrow. I don't think I've seen a large group of sober people having a better time.

If there was a place to argue for King Jigme Singye Wangchuck's controversial policy of promoting "gross national happiness" over gross national product, this remote and largely undeveloped valley was it.

In the capital of Thimphu, things were different. There were shops full of electronic devices, one-way streets, faceless government offices and, most horrifying of all for my driver, parking tickets!

Still, after five days of monasteries, temples and secluded lodges, I was replete with spiritual merit and Aman serenity. It was time to hit the town.

Guided by Gustini Kurniawaty, assistant manager of the Aman lodge, I headed for Thimphu's famous Om Bar. It was shut. Another pub nearby was not shut but had locked the door. At a pool bar downstairs, two diehard players were competing by the light of a single candle during one of the city's frequent power cuts.

Finally, we came to a side-street bar known as Jojo's Place, a hangout of expatriates and tourists where the nation's stringent anti-smoking rules were not being vigorously heeded. At closing time, staff locked the doors and pulled down the shutters. Everyone inside remained where they were and carried on drinking, allowing me to acquire all the symptoms of altitude sickness that I had spent the week trying to avoid.

And so on my final day I found myself in a weakened state at the start of the trail to Bhutan's most photographed monastery: Taktsang Goemba, or Tiger's Nest. Clinging to the side of a vertical cliff face about 800 meters above the valley floor, the monastery is reached by a steep, winding path.

Decrepit or wimpy tourists can hire a horse to carry them most of the way, but to do it properly, you should make the two-hour climb on foot, gaining spiritual merit for each step of the 915-meter ascent.

I took the horse.

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It was leased for a while to Indian Airlines

DRUK AIR SELECTS CFM56-5B TO POWER NEW AIRBUS A319S
 

SINGAPORE — February 24, 2004 — Druk Air, the national airline of Bhutan, today announced its selection of the CFM56-5B engine to power two new Airbus A319 aircraft scheduled for delivery in late 2004.

CFM56-5B engines are produced by CFM International (CFM). CFM is a 50/50 joint company between Snecma Moteurs and General Electric Company.

Druk Air ordered the A319s as part of a fleet expansion and renewal program. The A319s, which will replace the airline’s current BAe146 aircraft, will provide increased capacity and will enable Druk Air to expand its network, developing new routes to destinations such as Singapore and Dubai in the near future.

“The investment in larger aircraft is evidence of the high value the Government of Bhutan places on tourism; there are no restrictions on the number of tourist arrivals to this country. The increased capacity of the A319s will help Druk Air transport more passengers with reliability and comfort and the –5B engines will enable us to carry more payload and enhance our performance out of Paro” said Sangay Khandu, Managing Director of Druk Air.

Paro Airport, where Druk is based, is one of the most unique airports in the world. The 2000 meter air strip is set in a narrow valley 7,300 feet above sea level and is surrounded by the high peaks of the Himalayan mountain range. The CFM56-5B7 engines that will power the A319s are rated at 27,000 pounds (120 kN) thrust and will provide maximum performance and payload capability in this demanding environment.

"We are extremely gratified that Druk Air has put its confidence in the CFM56-5B. The payload/performance requirements are very demanding and we are glad to be able to satisfy Druk Air " said Nam Tran, Regional Sales Director CFM International.

Druk Air is the most recent airline on the Indian subcontinent to order CFM56 engines. Jet Airways, Air Sahara, Sri Lankan Airlines, and Biman Bangladesh Airlines are all CFM customers/operators. National carriers Indian Airlines and Air India recently selected CFM56 engines for their new fleet; these orders are still pending final government approval.

Druk Air of the Royal Bhutan Airlines was to be the launch
customer for the Avro RJX. The new airliners are due to go into
service in the fall of 2004.

"Druk Air's flights to Paro, the only commercial airport in Bhutan, is located in a deep valley at an elevation of 7300 ft above sea level. The surrounding hills are high as 16,000 ft and approach into Paro airport is entirely by visual flight rules. Due to the difficult conditions, operations with the older Dornier 228s caused many delays and diversions. With the growth of traffic and the expansion of flights the need for a larger aircraft became necessary. After conducting numerous tests taking into account the  difficult conditions the British Aerospace BAe 146-100 was selected and started operations in November 1988. Soon after its introduction the Druk Air network linked Paro with New-Delhi, Bangkok and Kathmandu. Starting with two destinations in 1983 Druk Air now operates from Paro four times a week to Bangkok and Calcutta, twice to Kathmandu and Delhi and once a week to Yangon.

DRUK AIR ROUTE MAP

Maybe the smallest national carrier in the world, Druk-Air has a fleet of two BAe-146 aircraft. The hostesses are trained by Thai Airways International to give the airline its credibility and charm." (Druk Air)

Druk Air is the national carrier of the Kingdom of Bhutan. Established by a Royal Proclamation on 5 April 1981, it began operations on 14 January 1983. Traffic growth eventually led to the need for a larger aircraft, and the BAe 146-100 was selected due to its ability to operate into the tight confines of Bhutan's Paro Airport, which is located in a deep valley at 7,333 feet above sea level and is surrounded by hills as high as 16,000 feet. An order for a single BAe 146-100 was placed in October 1988. The aircraft, registered A5-RGD, was delivered on 16 November and placed into service on Druk Air's routes to Calcutta and Dhaka. A second series 100 was delivered in December 1992. The 146s allowed additional services to be introduced to New Delhi, Bangkok, and Kathmandu. Yangon was also served briefly. In addition to the scheduled international services, Druk Air's 146s also operate weekly sight-seeing flights over the Himalayas from October to March. Druk Air's 146s are fitted with 10 business class and 62 economy class seats.

Druk Air placed the first order for the new Avro RJX derivative in April 2000, with an order for two Avro RJX-85s. The RJX-85s would have allowed the airline to operated non-stop services to Bangkok (currently served via Calcutta or Dhaka) and Hong Kong. Cancellation of the RJX places the airline in a quandary, as no other type has the requisite mix of short-field performance, capacity, and range.

During 2000-2001, Druk Air forced to operate with a single aircraft for over a year when A5-RGD was found to have corrosion in its wing tanks during a check at Woodford and had to have her wings replaced. In 2002, an RJ70 was wet-leased from airBaltic to cover for maintenance to A5-RGE.

Current Fleet: A5-RGD E1099; A5-RGE E1199; YL-BAK E1223.

Druk Air has signed the purchase agreement for two Airbus 319 aircraft . The first Airbus 319 is expected to reach Paro by October 2004 and the second aircraft two months later.

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Druk Air to fly to Gaya (India)

Bhutanese pilgrims who want to avoid the hassles of a road or train journey to Bodhgaya, India, now have the option of flying there. Druk air will fly to Gaya once a week starting November 11, 2004. Druk Air is introducing a direct flight from Paro to Gaya, about seven kilometres from Bodhgaya, starting November 11 coinciding with the birth anniversary of His Majesty the King. Bodhgaya is one of the holiest sites for buddhists all over the world.
The one hour ten minute flight will operate once a week at a discounted round fare rate of Nu 5,348 a person."If the number of people flying to Bodhgaya picks up we might increase the flight schedule to twice a week," said Druk Air's general manager (commercial). "We will then fly on Tuesdays and Fridays." The Nu 5,348 airfare was a promotional fare to attract customers during the winter months from November to mid-February. "We are targeting government employees and businessmen who have limited time to visit Bodhgaya," Druk Air said. Bus or train journeys take between two to three days from the border town of Phuentsholing to Bodhgaya. More than 30,000 to 40,000 people travel to Bodhgaya every year.

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BAGGAGE RESTRICTION
Accompanied baggage from Bangkok and Dhaka is restricted to 20 Kgs above normal allowance subject to 2 suitcase-sized pieces per passenger. Normal excess baggage rates will apply for this allowance. Further, bulky items like TV's etc will not be accepted as accompanied baggage. Passengers are requested to book anything additional as checked baggage (Cargo).

Druk Air Travel Distances and Time:

PBH Paro To km (miles)
   Flying Time
BKK Bangkok  1,930 (1199)     03hrs.20min 
CCU Calcutta  556 (345)     01hr.07min 
DEL Delhi  1,340 (832)     02hrs.40min 
KTM Kathmandu  535 (332)     01hr 
BKK Bangkok To km (miles)
   Flying Time
CCU Calcutta  1,670 (1037)     02hrs.40min 
PBH Paro  1,930 (1199)     03hrs.20min 
CCU Calcutta To km (miles)
   Flying Time
BKK Bangkok  1,670 (1037)     02hrs.36min 
PBH Paro  556 (345)     01hr 
DEL Delhi To km (miles)
   Flying Time
PBH Paro  1,340 (832)     02hrs.10min 
KTM Kathmandu  900 (559)     01hr.33min 
KTM Kathmandu To km (miles)
   Flying Time
DEL Delhi  900 (559)     01hrs.34min 
PBH Paro  535 (332)     56min 

Druk Air Cancellation Policy

Cancellation rules apply only to the Airfare portions of tour or travel arrangements. These cancellation policies are set by Druk Air and not Bootan.com. Bootan.com's policy is to refund as much of unused fees as possible to the traveler. We will refund as much as we are able to recover from Bhutan Tourism Authorities and Druk Air.

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Druk Air Cancellation Rules:

1.  Refund policy

1-a
Any Cancellation of  Druk Air tickets regardless of season or dates prior to departure are subject to a 15% penalty of the airfare price.

1-b
During the high tourism season (March, April, May, September, October, November) Druk Air cancellations made from 60 days to 30 days before departure are subject to 50% penalty of the airfare. Cancellations made less than 30 days before departure are not eligible for any refund and therefore 100% of airfare is forfeited.

1-c
During the low tourism season (January, February, June, July, August, December) Druk Air cancellations made from 21 days to 14 days before departure are subject to 50% penalty of the airfare. Cancellations made less than 14 days before departure are not eligible for any refund and therefore 100% of airfare is forfeited. 

Applies to GSA/PSA tour group USD fare bookings

2.  Ticketing Agents

Refund polices for bookings made by ticketing agents during the high tourist season are the same as for tour operators (1.1, 1.2).

3. No Show Policy

In the event, a passenger holding a confirmed booking who fails to show up for a flight will not be eligible for any refund.

4. General Rules

4-a.  Reconfirmation:
If a Druk Air passenger breaks their travel for more than 72, reconfirmation of reservation is required 72 hours before departure of the flight, or reservation will be cancelled with no refund eligibility.

4-b.  Documentation Charge:
A documentation fee of Nu500 will be charged for each request.

4-c.  Rebooking:
In the event a passenger requires rescheduling, based on flight availability, the following additional rebooking fees will be imposed.
  i) 48 hours before departure - Nu500
  ii) 36 hours before departure - Nu1000
  iii) 24 hours before departure - Nu1500

4-d.  Lost Tickets - non refundable

 (From Druk Air website)