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Post Info TOPIC: Travels in the Northeast


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Travels in the Northeast
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In March 2005 I had booked from Delhi to Guwahati by Air Deccan. At that time the timetable was quite interesting. On some days of the week it was Delhi-Guwahati-Dibrugarh-Delhi and on other days it was Delhi-Dibrugarh-Guwahati-Delhi. This is not there now.

I made it a point to sit on the left side with a view to see the Himalayas. They did come into sight and the visibility was quite good. The pilot did point out Mount Everest which was clearly visible.

We landed at Guwahati airport (to be precise, Lokpriya Gopinath Bardoloi International Airport) which was showing the signs of extensive renovation, although construction was still going on. We proceeded by road to Shillong and other places of interest in Meghalaya. There is a little known helicopter service (Mi-8) operated by Pawan Hans for the Meghalaya government twice a day between Guwahati airport and the Shillong air force helipad. Incidentally this helipad is somewhat easier to reach from the city than the regular airport. However, this service had a fatal crash in September 2004.

While returning from GAU to DEL I sat on the right side, but this time the flight was diverted far to the south and must have been flying over northern Bangladesh. The next day someone set off a bomb at Gauhati airport, though there were fortunately no casualties.

Some months later, we were anxious to finish the tickets in Air Deccan's Super Flier Plus scheme so another trip to the Darjeeling and Sikkim region was planned. This time we flew in to Bagdogra. Unlike in Gauhati, you get a good view of Air Force planes here. However, in September the visibility was quite poor and we could hardly see the Himalayas both on the inward and outward journey. This was truly a multi-modal transport experience as other modes included the train from Darjeeling to Siliguri as well as a yak at the lake near Nathu La.

Pawan Hans also operates a helicopter from Bagdogra to Gangtok for the Sikkim government-but it is a puny 4-seater.

By then, the Delhi-Dibrugarh flight had gone while there was a similar pattern of srvice between Delhi, Bagdogra and Gauhati.

In early 2004 I had travelled by Alliance Air from Kolkata to Shillong and back. The ATR-42 appeared to be a little better than its counterparts in Air Deccan. At least the food from Taj caterers of Kolkata was good. Shillong airport may qualify as the tiniest terminal in any commercial airport in India.

Many years back (in 1962) we were flying from Silchar to Calcutta on an IAC F-27. This was part of a complicated journey which involved a flight from Calcutta to Chittagong, a train ride to a place near Sylhet and then another train ride across the border to Karimganj.

In those days facilities at places like Silchar were quite rudimentary and generally things were quite laid back. There was one passenger who did not have a confirmed ticket and barged into the plane and refused to budge. There was obviously little or no security at the airport. The pilot was concerned with the worsening weather and said that if the problem wasn't resolved he would take off for Calcutta with or without the passengers. Ultimately one other passenger who did have a ticket agreed to take the next day's flight. But if someone tried something like the waitlisted passenger did today, he would be lucky to escape without being shot.

This flight had a stopover at Agartala-which remains the only time I visited Tripura.
More about Agartala later.

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Lucky you!'


NE is a paradise. 


Looking forward to the next part.


When was there a bomb explosion in Guwahati airport?



-- Edited by karatecatman at 18:02, 2006-06-16

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Neat report! It must really feel great to fly over the Himalayas....

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karatecatman wrote:

Lucky you!'
NE is a paradise. 
Looking forward to the next part.
When was there a bomb explosion in Guwahati airport?-- Edited by karatecatman at 18:02, 2006-06-16




This would have been in the first week of March 2005. As there were no casualties it wasn't reported much

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More on Agartala and Tripura

This is not a trip report, but may be of interest as this is a relatively unknown part of the country.

Agartala is unique among state capitals in that it is practically on the border with a foreign country. The border checkpoint on the Agartala-Akhaura road is less than 10 km from the city centre. Moreover, the airport is right on the border.

There are a couple of towns which are in Tripura but the railway station is in Bangladesh. One is Belonia. Another is Kamalasagar, from where you can see the Dhaka-Chittagong line a couple of hundred metres from the border. However the station has long been renamed Quasba.

Agartala's proximity to Bangladesh had one interesting spinoff. Until a couple of years ago no Indian cellphone company functioned there. No problem. Smuggled SIM cards from Bangladesh were used. Even senior government officials used these, although ISD charges applied when calling anywhere in India. If you are going to the Wagah border, you will get the Pakistani cell signals on your phone, although you won't be able to access the entwork.

Back to Agartala airport, which incidentally was built around 1940 over a tea estate which was acquired from my maternal grandfather. I suppose at that time no one imagined that Partition was really coming, or they may have built it a little further from the border between Tripura and Bengal.

In the years immediately after Partition, there were little border controls between East Pakistan and India which has led to problems which continue till today. My mother's experience was typical. At that time her home was in Sylhet district and she was studying in Calcutta. (People had to decide by 1952 whether they wanted to stay in India or Pakistan; until then they could come and go as they wished). In those days some small airlines used to fly between Calcutta and Agartala besides other places in the Northeast. As the Dakotas had limited range, they often used to refuel at Dacca. (A number of small airlines were nationalized in 1953 and merged into Indian Airlines).

Now my mother used to catch a flight to Agartala and walk off the runway. After a few minutes walk she would reach the border which at most would have a single policeman (and no fence or boundary marker). A few minutes further one would reach a place where a rickshaw could be got for Akhaura station, from where trains could be got for anywhere in the eastern half of East Pakistan.

Nothing unique about this border; even today the Nepal border is pretty laidback. Rickshaws go back and forth across the border at Sunauli, near Gorakhpur. For instance, a rickshaw from Bhairawa bus stand (in Nepal) to the railway station at Nautanwa, about 12 km, will cost you 100 Nepali rupees (around 60 Indian rupees). This was in early 2003. Maybe things have tightened up now.





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That's an interesting report. Always wanted to to travel to the North East but never have had an opportunity. I would love to see the Agartala airport. Is the approach to the airport over Bangladesh?

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himmat01 wrote:

That's an interesting report. Always wanted to to travel to the North East but never have had an opportunity. I would love to see the Agartala airport. Is the approach to the airport over Bangladesh?



The commercial flights from Kolkata to most of the airports in the Northeast do pass over Bangladesh. Apart from Agartala, Bagdogra is fairly close to the border.

Flights from Delhi to the Northeast generally use the Siliguri-Bagdogra corridor (which is less than 30 km across) and do not leave Indian territory. But if the weather is poor they take a detour over Bangladesh (which seems to have happened when I flew from Guwahati to Delhi in early 2005).

Footnote: during the build-up to the 1971 war, India had banned overflights by Pakistani aircraft from East to West. Generally they were going via Colombo. A few enterprising Pakistani military pilots used to fly into Tibet and then Pakistan after a quick dash over the Siliguri region, confident that the Indian air force could not catch them.

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Is that why when you fly to Baghdogra you suddenly take a sharp right? On the return, its a sharp left! (Sounds like driving on the road!!!)


Seems to match with your description.



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Or maybe were u flying Indian

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